Happy New Year

It's New Year's Eve, and I'm spending it in Varanasi, the holiest city in India. When I first got here, that phrase to describe Varanasi rang about as true as the statement, "Gary, Indiana is the sweetest smelling city in America." First, I was intentionally taken to the wrong hotel and actively deceived by both the driver and the owner of the hotel. When I found the right hotel, the owner of the other hotel wouldn't refund my deposit. We exchanged some harsh words; some hand gestures I've found transcend the language barrier. Then the unrelenting onslaught on me as a tourist from vendors, boatmen, and especially rickshaw drivers was starting to get me disheartened. In fact if one had been listening closely, one could've heard me mutter the phrase, India blows, under my breathe on more than one occasion on that first day in Varanasi. But now it's actually starting to grow on me. I've met some nice people at my guesthouse, and we're going to a recital of traditional Indian music tonight. It's supposed to last most of the night and include food, all for only $3.50. On the second of January, I'm going to leave for Khajuraho. I've decided to put off Delhi for now and stick to some of the smaller villages for a bit. I only have five weeks for India, and that isn't nearly enough time to see all that I want to see. I'm going to have to make it back to India and spend more time here.

Anyway, India is very different from Nepal. I had been told what to expect by both people (Nepali and Westerners) and guidebooks, but that still can't prepare you for what it's actually like. I think the phrase that describes India best is An assault on the senses. I understand that Varanasi is particularly daunting, but that Delhi is even worse. I understand why some people fly into Delhi and end up booking the next ticket home. But once you get used to it, India is really enjoyable.

Again, I'm pressed for time and can't give the complete description that Varanasi deserves, but let me just say that despite being the dirtiest city I've been in on the dirtiest river (The Ganges is completely septic by the time it leaves Varanasi, and people bath in it and even drink the water!) I've ever seen, Varanasi has a lot of Old India charm, and I can only see India getting better from here.